Friday, October 30, 2009

Dear Josh, Thank you for telling me about Hampi...

Back in Toronto, Josh Tuffin said to me "Oh my goodness, you are going to India? - You have to go to Hampi! They have the best rock climbing in the world!" I replied with me usual response; "Josh, I don't rock climb, remember?" But, he kindly dog eared the page in my lonely planet none the less and now I will thank him. Hampi is amazing.
The landscape here is like nothing i have ever seen before. As the legend goes, Hanuman (the monkey god) was send by a Baba to get some plants from the mountains for healing. But instead, he brought back the whole mountain. The Baba tells him to return the mountain and so he simply dropped all the rocks on top of one another in... you guessed it: Hampi. For a while this place was the capital of ancient civilizations (of which I cannot spell). The story as well as the ancient temples and ruims that litter the land here help to explain the almost overwhelming beauty. It is majestic. Huge boulders rest on one another looking as though at any moment they will topple. The strangest formations I have ever seen exist here. We climbed yesterday to quite a peak, sat in a little gazeebo looking at a temple and over the vast rocks, the ruins in the distance. It was amazing: seven of us travellers sat together is ininterupted silence, all in awe of what we saw.
Today Darius, Meika and I rented bicycles and biked to the resevoir for a swim. There we met a young man, Moses (he was not in the reeds, but perched on a giant rock). He brought us to a swimming spot and sold us cold waters, sprite and mango juice. Then he took us to cliff for jumping where we met up with the sweedish boys from our Goa->Hampi bus. I must have jumped off this crazy 5m cliff about 4 or 5 times. It was such a blast. The bike ride through dirt, sand and potholed roads was wild and we weaved our way through water buffalo herds returning from grazing in the hills. As we biked home through the village (at I guess 'rush hour') children hopped on the back of our bikes and laughed at the free ride from us foreigners. It was kind of magical.
Tomorrow i hope to see a Hampi sunrise, do some yoga, and then see the rest of the temples i only saw from the distance.
So while I haven't climbed any mountains as the nimble Josh Tuffin might, I am doing it in my own style, on the bicycle, in the mountains, soaking in the sun, making good friends and enjoying life as a traveller.

Until next time...

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

A week in Goa... a lifetime later...




Its hard to believe that Darius and I arrived here only a week ago. Since last wednesday, we have made some really spectacular friends. I have decided and promised to be back for New Years to stay with Sid and Moodrika. Last night we did it up right and had drinks at shore bar, until late into the night, possibly early morning and had a real chill time. I think one of the main themes of Goa is to chill.

Another theme of Goa is beaches! Both yesterday and the day before Darius and I rented a bike and zipped off to new stretches of beautiful sand. Monday we went to Morjim beach; it was lovely, empty and went for hundreds of meters. Fishing boats, jutting rocks and fishing boats line the shore. We ate amazing food (I don't think we've had a bad meal yet) at a little beach hut and then lay on day beds. I then fell asleep and was gifted with a rosey "tan". Yesterday we went to Arambol; this beach was much more commercial and there were plenty of Euros littering the beaches, plenty of bars, shops, etc. None the less we had a lovely swim, climbed some crazy little rocks off the shore (in flip flops no less) and then enjoyed one of the more beautiful sunsets I have ever seen on the bike home.

The other day we had a beach day in Anjuna, where we are actually staying and acquired a dog for the day. There are lots of stray beach dogs. And this one fluffy little orange pup came up to us and followed us the whole day. Darius named him Captain Kirk. I named him Floppy. All of the other dogs went bananas when he passed through, barking and snapping. Poor little Captain Floppy. I have no idea what kind of crime he committed in the dog community, but it must have been bad.

Oh! Also, I couldn't stop laughing as we biked home the other day and at one point there were literally cows everywhere. We turned a corner and then poor Darius had to drive us through, honking the little scooter horn and dodging cows and their tails.

Tonight we drive to Mapusa and take a bus from there to Hampi. I figure any kind of ride will be better than the bus to Goa (that was a nightmare). We are going with two girls who we met here, Meika and Amy. We'll spend a few days there, then to Hyderabad, then Chennai to stay with Lauri, Julia's Mom. We've booked our tickets to Andamans and Sri Lanka. The adventure is really shaping up. Its hard to believe that we have only been here a week and a half... my sense of time is completely warped. It may have been a lifetime, or a week, I don't know.

Until next post... So much love to my home.

Saturday, October 24, 2009

The Hottest Run of my Life!

Its about 10:30am on Sunday here. I just got back from a run. I thought it would be a good idea as life here in Goa is pretty laid back. It seems that lolling on the beach or at the shore hut might not burn as much energy as I thought. I needed a burst. I got up early to go and sweat more than i ever have in my life. And people looked at me like I was crazy. The best part is having to dodge cows in the streets while running. Actually dodging cows in the streets if funny here no matter how you cut it - car, walking, running, motorbike...

Goa has been good to Darius and I. We are staying in Anjuna, which is the north part of the beaches. We are at a cheap and cheerful little guest house and most days we go for breakfast (usually Dal Fry and tea), then a trip to the beach for swimming, market exploring, etc. We have made some really good friends here too at a little hang out beach hut resto-bar called shore bar. Sidd, Moodrika, and Daniel are all living here in Goa, and know so much about where to go. They've introduced us to their friends from Goa as well. Sidd and Moodrika had us for dinner, drove us around and have been generally so welcoming.

Shore bar, where we have been chilling out is kind of like a hippie dream. There are day beds, lawn chairs, tapestries hand from everywhere. There is beautiful art on the walls, pillows on the floors. You can play cards, chess, the other night we learned a game called Carmel (sort of a backgammon/pool fusion game). Daniel runs the bar but is really good at taking time out to come and sit with us, talk and go swimming. The other day we went for a ride into Mapusa and I bought some colored pencils for sketching. We went to a sweets shop and I ate something, I wish I could remember the name, but it looks like a pretzel made of orange candy and it tastes like the sauce that comes in sweet & sour chicken balls, plus like a bucket of syrup and sugar. Its kind of spectacular. After than I stopped for a sugar cane juice... maybe thats why i needed a run today...

The beach is an interesting place. On the walk there, there are plenty of stalls to but dresses, sarongs, shoes, clothing and jewelery. Most of the women say 'hello', 'how are you', 'whats your name?' and so on until they have you buy the hand saying 'just come look, looking is free, come to my shop. You don't have to buy but if you like, you buy'. If you are not feeling up to a speedy and steady string of 'no, no, no, no, no - I don't want to buy anything' you get suckered into this: 'Ok, don't look today, but come by (buy?) on your way back. Promise, you come tomorrow. Promise?' The promise is a precarious thing here. They literally find you the next day, while you are swimming, or reading, whatever and will say ' You promised yesterday you come to my shop. You promise'. Then you are F***ed. So you have to go, then you say you don't want anything, that you promised to come by, not to come buy. Then if you do want to buy something, you gotta haggle. I have realized, I am not very good that this. I have already made some foolish purchases, however I have also made some sweet buys. Either way, things are pretty cheap here, so if you make a mistake, it may only be at a cost of $4 for a dress that doesn't quite fit how you thought it might... not that it happened to me.

Indian internet is painfully slow and I am unable to be patient enough to wait for my photos to upload. It takes so long.
Anyways, I am off to call Moodrika to make a trip to Old Goa.

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Mumbai: overstuffed & overstaffed

I am outta Mumbai. This seems an accomplishment as getting out was not as easy as I had thought, or as it had seemed 2 days ago when we booked our tickets to Goa. Quickly, I'll just say a few things about Mumbai; only having spent a few days I can give an impression. Firstly, this city is packed. It is overstuffed. There are literally people everywhere - and driving out of the city confirmed this. It seemed to take almost 2.5 Hours to get out of the city. With that said, and with the alarming amount of people who do not appear to be working or employed, everywhere you go is totally overstaffed. A tiny cafe restaurant that could easily be run by one server and a busser has at least 5 to 7 on hand. This seems to explain why perhaps everyone is payed to low - the limited work has to be shared several ways.
My favorite place in Mumbai was Chowpatty beach . We went there twice during our stay - once on a friggin' 10 km walk through the city... and apparently a small jumgle... which felt like walking through a hockey bag... that was inside an oven. Did I mention its hot here? My other favorite place, that we went to three time (!!) was a resto called Laxmi Villa. Seriously amazing.
Speaking of over staffed, this brings me to my 'bus' ride story - also known as a total 'bust'. With the train station not only closed, but all trains apparently booked we looked to get some bus tickets. After haggling for a while we settled on a non AC sleeper for only $1600IR (thats about $20 each). When we went to catch it, the bus had 'broken down' but not to worry, we could get seats on a sitting bus. Turns out this bus looked like it had seen better days - even before the apparent war zone it had also gone through. The driver was wild. Leaving the city gave a glimpse of Indian life (and odor) that we didn't see in the central city. The poverty was alot to take in, even at a ragingly fast speed, as was the smell - it seemed a strange mix of diaper and death.
But, now we are safe and sound in Goa. It is much quieter here and there are white people everywhere. We went to the market and got suckered into buying more than I wanted, but got some good trinkets none the less. We are staying at a cheap and cheerful little place close to the beach and some good eating. Hoping that Goa give a little peace before we head onto Hampi (thats right Josh - we're going to Hampi! - I'll jump on a rock for you!)

Monday, October 19, 2009

The Difference is like a Tidal Wave

The past few days I have seen a lot and done plently of wandering. This city makes you feel like you can get a glimpse of every spectrum of life. The kind of money that is in mumbai is really incredible. Shops that sell beautiful clothing and jewellery are all over, markets overflow with clothing and shoes, books and electronics. The streets bustle. The amount of people who sleep on the streets is astonishing and really difficult to deal with. It is so hard to not give money to children, especially when you see the kind of situation they are in. Its hard to negotiate where your responsibility and ability to give as a foriegner is exactly. Does giving encourage begging, and how much do/can you give, when and who do you say no to? And it seems no matter how much you give, it never feel like enough and you when you say no I wonder if there is any inkling on their part as to how heartwrenchingly painful it feels. It seems like the spectrum of life, poverty , affluence is like a tidal wave. Compared to Canada, and my experiences there it seems like our spectrum of life is a minor blip. Either way, its totally shaken my sense of gratitude. It makes me think how lucky and fortunate I am and how incredibly random life is that depending on what part of the globe you are born in, and to whom you are born of, literally makes a world of difference.
With that said, its Diwali here! And you know what that means? a lot of fire crackers and christmas lights. We were out the other night and we must have heard hundreds of fire cracker blasts. my ears rang the whole evening. I put my three fave pictures up from the other day. i hope you enjoy!

Saturday, October 17, 2009

HOT

We arrived in Mumbai late last night to some new and different sounds and sights. It was about 1:30 when we arrived at the "hotel Metro Palace" where we were 'royal guests' - or so said the welcome card by the bed. Last night was the first I slept soundly and hard since leaving Toronto. I guess my body needed it.

Taking a cab from Badra (a suburb by the airport) to our new hostel showed an instant glimpse of India - by the time our driver dropped us at Victoria train station (there is another, longer name for it I can't remember) - I saw some of the most glamorous women I've ever seen, cows in the street, babies in the streets crying and looking hungry, men sleeping on the side of the road, lights and color and rickshaws. From the station we walked and thank goodness for Darius's orienteering - I would have been totalyl lost. But we made it, and then set out for a walk. At the harbor about 10 people stopped to have their picture taken with me - all in the same pose - we must look like we are shaking hands. This was a first. And peole stare like they have never seen a foriegner before. Sunglasses are a big help.

We got back to the hostel this afternoon, and both passed out for about an hour from heat and jet lag. We made it to a tiny and HOT cybercafe for a hot minute but soon my sleepy and jetlagged self is gonna need some food and water.

Once I figure it out I promise for picture of London and the first few days here. We'll likely leave on Tuesday to Goa for some beach time relaxing.

LOVE!

Its Diwali here and so maybe we'll find somehwere to celebrate... India style.

Until there is something more... I miss my hunnies lots and lots.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

And so it begins

Hello!
Just arrived last night, and very tired, in London. I am spending the day here with Mom and Dad (Dad is working and Mom is soaking in every last bit of me she can!). My last day before leaving was pretty epic. Brittany came by to say goodbye and have a hug (and borrow clothes!). I had the most lovely thanksgiving dinner with the Mancini family. Then the evening having a final snuggle with Markian - who I already miss terribly! Its taking a lot of discipline to keep my mind elsewhere and to not be blue. (Hi Markian - I miss you! xo)

London is just how I remembered: busy, expensive, foggy and very British.

Today I went to the National Museum and saw some of the classic paintings of Monet, Manet, Picasso, Van Gogh and many many many others. This made for an amazing afternoon. Tonight we may just go to the theater and if I have my way, we'll see the Muppet show. That's right, there is a Muppet Musical and I plan to see it. The headlines read: "Pant-wettingly funny!" Sign me up.

I have one more day here and then we are off to India Friday morning. Since there is not much to report I'll simply let you in on this funny tidbit: Today I started my Malaria medication. Turns out as an anti bacterial medication it is also often precribed as an acne medication so while the horrendous side effects of dizziness, nasuea, headaches, vomitting and diarhea take hold, at least I'll have clear skin. Oddly enough, these side effects are a lot like the symptoms of... you guessed it! Malaria! So far I have suffered no side effects. And please keep your fingers crossed to that effect.

I Hope for some pictures to follow in the next week.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Just before you go...

Isn't it kind of bizarre that when you are the brink of great change, or in this case, a big adventure, all of a sudden all of those things, people, foods, smells and luxuries that are 'everyday' become so much more important and intense? This last week has been especially special.
This weekend has been pretty amazing. Yesterday was Markian's birthday and in order to celebrate we decided that going all out was the only way to go about things. I made a point of showering him with gifts and treats. This meant lots of new stuff for his gorgeous bike that he just built (really, this bike is so hot it makes you want to take your clothes off). It also meant lots of 'drinkas' both at the Gladstone and one at most every bar on Queen west from ossington to dufferin. I would like to take this moment to apologize to Markian for actually ruining his birthday by giving him a wretched hangover. Oops. Despite headaches, the night was really special and amazing and boy oh boy am I ever gonna miss all the sweet and loveliness of Markian.
Last night however, family time ensued. Darius and Ryan came for supper which was a true reunion. It felt really laid back to see the guys even after so much time and also makes me wish I was better at keeping in touch because it is worth it. Darius and I got our stuff together to get to London before we make it to Mumbai on Friday.

So you know how sometimes before you go somewhere and you know there won't be any 'of that favorite thing you love so much'? Things like toilet paper, or your Honey-love, turkey dinners or your best girlfriends? It's been really nice to be able to spend os much quality time with al of those items (maybe not the TP so much...).
Brittany and Selka went were both really good to me and made all kinds of special effort to make a special goodbye for me and I thought that was really amazing. It made me feel quite warm... and fuzzy. Thanks!

Today is going to be spent with the family, I have already made a pumpkin pie and pecan streusel and listened to Beyonce the whole way through. A day of turkey and thanks before the voyage!

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

This time, almost, next week.

Its Wednesday of the week before I leave for one of the bigger and more adventurous of the 'big life adventures'. I have been plotting and dreaming of this trip for almost one year and now my destination looms merely a week away. This makes me feel a number of things: excited, thrilled, dreamy, sentimental, heartbroken and ready for change.
I've spent the last weeks getting ready - shots, buying a pack, getting papers in order, and enjoying toilet paper.
So here is a little update to outlay what this trip might be like. Originally I was to travel on my lonesome, which I am sure gave both of my parents severe anxiety. "Be safe, be careful" was a common reaction when I told people I'd be on my own in India. This is wonderful advice, and I plan to be both safe and careful. However, about 3 weeks ago I was speaking on the phone with my good friend Naseam catching up and she had mentioned our mutual friend from UVic would likely be down to be a last minute travel buddy. Rolling with the idea I put it out to Darius, who has travelled for the past year througout south east Asia that if he wanted to go to India he would be more than welcome! Well, guess what? He agreed and now the two of us are heading to London and then Mumbai.
The general plan is this: arrive, sleep, adjust to jet lag and then explore Mumbai for a few days. We will likely decide in our first few days in what direction we want to go but generally we are thinking south and east. Goa is definately on the destination list, as is Kerela, Sri Lanka and the Andaman Islands. I am sure we will hit many places in between.
In the meantime I have been in Toronto. Its been pleasant and fun filled 'limbo' time while I wait for the skies in India to clear up and I am so grateful for the time I've spent chilling with close friends and family.
I am really going to try to keep up this blog so that I have a record of what this trip will be as well as a way of keeping anyone who is reading and following up to date. I think any homesickness will be softened and heartbreak mildly dulled knowing that mom and dad and all my friends are able to know what's happening here.